John Galliano opened his show with an homage to Charlie Chapline. The romantic lead from the silent film era was a poster boy for a series tramp-chic looks.
The silhouette focused on a mix of oversized and undersized, Galliano opened with a passage dedicated to Chaplin’s style, reworking proportion and tailoring. He turned the Little Tramp’s iconic baggy trousers into dropped-crotch pants, either full and long or cropped at the calf, and topped with shrunken blazers or trench coats, both belted at the waist. Then the designer paid homage to the tailored Keaton with a series of pale suits worn with wing-collared shirts. Other key pieces included the fluid but straight-cut pants and the high-breaking overcoats.
A trademark beachwear section followed, offering spliced-jersey pedal pushers, low-scooping vests and the tiniest of resort shorts, before ending with more of the Chaplinesque proportions reinterpreted into tuxedos, lace frock coats and pinstripe pants for evening.
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